When you're considering making changes to your home or business, changes in heating and cooling costs can be a very important deciding factor. But did you know that the type of roof you select can make a big difference on your utility bills? In this post, we'll discuss how metal roofing's inherent properties and supplemental systems can do an amazing job of reducing your utility bill while keeping your structure comfortable.

áExterior reflection of heat and light

A light-colored metal roof is by nature reflective. Instead of soaking in the heat as asphalt shingles do, metal roofing reflects that heat back into the air, allowing it to stay cooler. At the same time, it's also reflecting light away from your building, preventing the light energy from heating up the shingles, much like the science experiment comparing temperatures of dark and light objects placed in the sun. This means that your cooling bill is significantly lower in a metal-roofed building than a comparable asphalt-shingled building.

Interior reflection of heat

Metal roofing isn't only reflective on the outside - it's also reflective on the inside. When you're heating a building, would you rather that the heat simply transfer through the roofing materials to the outside or would you rather it be reflected back into the building to help retain the heat? There have been a number of new insulation and radiant floor heating products developed over the past few years that are based on reflecting heat back into a structure, but metal roofing has been providing that same effect for many decades.

Minimizing heat gain

By using a few techniques, you can also minimize heat gain from a metal roof. If you place spacers between the metal and your building, it becomes much harder for heat to transfer from your roof into your building. Metal roofing also integrates well with insulated roofing systems, making it the perfect material when you're working on a project that requires green certifications, such as the LEED certification process. Choosing a color that is available in a reflective surface helps maximize the amount of solar heat and light that is directed away from your structure. By comparison, an asphalt roof is typically laid directly on the structure, allowing any heat it picks up to transfer into your attic or loft, making it unbearably uncomfortable.

Easily ventilated

Because metal roofing has been used in warm climates for so many years, there are a number of ventilation systems that are easy to incorporate in your design. By allowing air to circulate between the roof and the building proper, you're providing an escape for hot air at the top while naturally drawing in cool air at the bottom as the convection cycle continues. This means that over all, your roof stays much cooler than even a well-ventilated asphalt shingle roofing system can accomplish.

Lack of thermal mass

Asphalt shingles are created from a heavy, dense material. Much like large stone or log structures, they can take a very long time to heat up or cool down because they hold heat on your roof and in your attic. This essentially creates an unintended heat sink on the top of your home or building while making it take much longer to heat up or cool down. By comparison, metal roofing has a very low thermal mass, meaning that it doesn't have an inherent ability to hold heat or cold that radiates back into your structure and makes it easier for your building to be heated or cooled effectively awhile requiring less energy.

Contact us todayáfor more details about our metal roofing supplies, to get a quote or to schedule a delivery that keeps you on the job site instead of running to the store.

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Photo credit: Internet Archive Book Images / Foter / No known copyright restrictions

A suspended ceiling can provide manyábenefits for your building, especially when done correctly. You can add a suspended ceiling to the front of a warehouse to createáoffice space, without having to put too much labor and money into the project. A suspended ceiling helps muffle excess noise, allowsáeasy passage of communication and computer networking needs and is simple to repair andámodify because of standardized tile sizes. But one area where your suspended ceiling may need help to reach peak energy efficiency is how you seal the places other components pass through, such as lights, intercoms, HVAC vents, wiring, plumbing and other infiltration areas.

To determine the best way to deal with these problems, we received expert advice on improvingáa suspended ceiling for peak performance from someone who knows serious insulation. LloydáMcIntireáis a recently retired insulation contractor in Tower, Minnesota - the town that broke the record for the coldest spot in the contiguous United States at -60║F in January 1996. As the only insulator in one of the coldest parts of our country, he was happy to share a little ofáhis 42+ years of experience with us.

The first step is to determine what's already in your suspended ceiling. "You have to start by doing an inspection and verifying what you already have in place. (A client) had a situation where he'd added insulation that blocked ventilation and allowed air leaks, causing hot spots and ice dams. A friend had told him he needed to add insulation, so he'd put sheet foam on top of the fiberglass. When he shoved the sheet foam on top, he displaced the existing fiberglass. That would have been messy, but still done the job, but to fit the boards into the space, the foam was cut 1/8-1/4" narrower than the space, so all the heat loss was going around the (unsealed) cracks in the sheet foam." Because the fiberglass had also been displaced, air was going directly through the looseágrid and tile spaces in the suspendedáceiling, through the holes where the fiberglass batting had been displaced and around the cracks at the edges of the sheet foam. Mr.áMcIntireáwas called in to "fix" the problem by removing all the insulation and putting in insulation that had been properly fit to the space andáeliminatedáthe problematic air infiltration gaps around the space. By the time the ceiling was fixed along with adding appropriate insulation to the ductwork and exposed concrete block walls that were losing heat to high winds, the client's heating expenses were lowered by 45-50%.

The next step is to add insulation and seal around any areas of infiltration. "Spray foam is much better than fiberglass (in this situation)ábecause moisture in an unventilated area can cause problems with mold and mildew in the fiberglass. Spray foam fills any spaces, so it seals pipes, wiring, anything that goes through that area," Mr.áMcIntireámentions. "Sheet foam is another option if you need to seal wall spaces (above the suspended ceiling) against infiltrating air, as long as the gaps (between boards) are sealed."á

He also notes that it's vital to ensure that insulation is replaced around new items added to a ceiling, such as a new run of wiring, new ductwork or similar areas of potential infiltration. "If you're really going to look at atticá insulationáand áso on, you should really be caulking and have a vapor barrieráneed to look at moving the insulation to seal around any air bypasses to the inside or outside of the area above the suspended ceiling. This includesálights, wire penetration up to the attic, plumbing, thatáneed to be sealed with caulking or weatherstripping."áThis is also true when you have a dead space above your suspended ceiling where the temperature is not being controlled.

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Well, my son actually put a hole in a wall recently, and I wanted to show you how to fix it, just in case it happens to you. First, measure the hole in the wall. Next, add an inch measurement to all four sides of the hole because there will be larger broken pieces inside the wall. The added area helps to eliminate any weaknesses.

Next, you could add a piece of drywall to the desired size. Then place it over the hole and trace the pattern on the existing wall with a pencil. If needed you can retrace the line with a straight edge.

Using a utility knife carefully cut the wall along the pencil line. The cut needs to be through the paper layer of the drywall but do not press too hard or you can cause more damage. From each corner make a slice towards the center of the hole. You may want to use a sole to cut all the way through, but be careful with any wires or pipes. Then carefully grasp one side and bend it inward making sure to pivot along the outside cut. In this case, there?s a stud behind the repair zone. So we had to take extra caution not to cause any more damage.

Using the utility knife carefully, trim around the edges to make every side it?s clean of a cut as possible. Now it is time to insert a wood support behind the wall. The wood allows you to press in the new section without concern of it falling behind the wall. I used a large paint stirrer but you can use any strong piece of wood. Using drywall screws I supported the wood with a screw on the top and the bottom.

Now insert the new section and secure it with a couple of screws. In our case I added a third screw to the stud but this is not required. Note that all the screws needed to be resting just barely below the surface of the wall.

Using a small putty knife at a layer of joint compound across the entire new section taking special care to fill in all the edges and over every screw. Now using a wide putty knife scrape away the excess compound and let everything dry overnight.

For the next step you?ll need some kind of a breathing mask, because it?s not a good idea to breathe the compound dust. Using a sanding block gently sand away all high spots to get a somewhat smooth surface. Here?s a tip; if you place a vacuum just below the sanding block, you can catch much of the falling dust.

But there will be some dust now reapply the joint compound over the entire surface scrape away any excess and let it dry. Later send the a get to a smooth finish. If needed repeat this step, and you?re now ready to repaint the wall.

Although drywall manufacturers are not known for constant innovation, they do occasionally come out with something that makes builders stand up and take notice. The growing concern with mold and its potential health hazards in recent years has led drywall companies to come up with a solution to the problem in housing construction ? mold resistant drywall. For areas of the home where moisture might be an issue, this type of specialty drywall could be just what you need tostop mold before it starts.

Mold in the Home

Mold is always around, even when we can't see it. The spores are everywhere and there is no hope of eliminating all of them. Luckily most of the time this isn't an issue. The problems only begin when enough moisture starts to accumulate in the home, creating an ideal environment for the mold.

The big stories in the news have been about the dreaded ?black mold? or ?toxic mold.? In truth a number of different molds can be black and while some of them produce toxins, it has yet to be proven that they cause major health problems. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention has a page all about mold in the home, where they explain it's dangers ? typically hay fever like symptoms in people that happen to be allergic ? and how to get rid of it.

But, while the fears surrounding mold may possibly be overblown, you can still bet that no one wants the stuff in their home if they can help it. Mold growth can cause allergic reactions in certain people and the presence of mold can definitely make it more difficult to sell a house. Whether the owner has an allergy or not, they will still want to remove the mold ? a process that could require a mold remediation company if it's bad enough. This is why specialty building materials like mold resistant drywall can come in real handy.

How Mold Resistant Drywall Works

Drywall hasn?t' changed much over the years because it works great as it is for most applications. A layer of gypsum sandwiched between two layers of paper, it is a must-have material for building a home. The only problem is that it doesn't do well with moisture. Mold spores can start feeding off of the paper and even the inner gypsum layer, meaning you have to tear out the drywall and replace it if the infestation gets too bad.

Mold resistant drywall is made in two different ways:

• Laminated ? This type of specialty drywall is designed to stop the problem where it starts, at the surface. Still using a gypsum core, manufacturers use a fiberglass mat on front and back that will repel water from the inner gypsum. The gypsum used in these boards is also water resistant, unlike that used in regular drywall.

• Uniform Composition ? These drywall boards dispense with mats altogether, instead opting for a uniform water-resistant material throughout. They can be painted or tiled as needed.

Advantages to Mold Resistant Drywall

The advantages to choosing this type of specialty drywall are fairly obvious. When you have an area of a home that is likely to be exposed to moisture, using mold resistant drywall can help prevent the growth of mold. This could be applicable in several parts of a home, including:

• Bathroom

• Kitchen

• Basement

• Garage

• Utility room

The cost of mold-resistant drywall will be higher than the traditional stuff. However, when you consider the fact that the material could hold up much longer in moist environments its cost may be justified. The humid New England climate is great for growing mold, especially in those areas of the house that area already prone to moisture accumulation.

Get Expert Advice

There are a number of different companies now producing mold resistant drywall. If you want to learn about all of your options and get expert advice on what works best for your specific project, call or come by Wallboard Supply Co. and talk with one of our specialty drywall professionals. Providing drywall delivery to Boston and throughout New England, we know our products inside and out and would be happy to answer all of your questions.

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Photo credit: anneh632 / Foter / Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 2.0 Generic (CC BY-SA 2.0)

Sources:áhttp://www.cdc.gov/mold/stachy.htm

As a contractor, you undoubtedly face more than a few challenges. áFrom unrealistic delivery times to not having enough help on hand, your obstacles indisputably cause your projects to fall behind schedule. áBut what if there was a way to speed up your project? áWhat if you could meet the demands of your boss without going over on your budget, all the while meeting the codes and regulations that you have to adhere to? á

Here's a quick look at the various benefits to be gained from using QuietRock drywall products.á

Meeting All of Your Various Project Needs

Are you building a theater? áA bar or pub? áHow about a professional studio or music room? áIt doesn't matter the type of project you're completing, because our QuietRock drywall products provide maximum noise reduction, and best of all, they come with high STC ratings. áFurthermore, it only takes a single layer of our QuietRock drywall products to achieve the best of the best soundproofing deliverance.

QuietRock 545

For commercial theaters and media rooms, as well as other projects that require optimized soundproofing, QuietRock 545 is your go-to drywall product. áThis sound damped panel provides the highest performance of soundproofing available on the market. áIt's undeniable benefits include all of the following:

• Up to an 80 STC rating
• Ideal for multiple projects, including sound rooms, high-end home theaters, convention centers, studios and more
• Compared to older methods of soundproofing, QuietRock 545 has been lab tested and proven to give greater soundproofing results
• No matter the frequency -- high or low -- QuietRock 545 delivers superior soundproofing

If you are in need of exact product specifications, which you probably are, because your boss will want to know the exacts of QuietRock 545, here they are:

• Permeability: 0
• Thickness: 1-3/8"
• STC-rated: 60-80
• Weight: 6.2 lbs/sq.foot

QuietRock 525

As stated before, as a contractor, you have to adhere to a specific budget. áQuietRock 525 serves as a solution to your budget and soundproofing requirements. áFor multi-family construction projects, you can't go wrong with the QuietRock 525 product. áIt can also be used for other various projects, including:

• Hotels
• Conference rooms
• Schools
• Hospitals
• Party walls
• Home theaters
• Offices
• Commercial properties

As far as meeting code for STC ratings, you can rest assured that a single layer of the 525 product on one side of the studs will exceed the ratings you are going after. áNot only does this let you avoid having to pay for materials and labor of providing double studs, but it even expands floor space. á

Notable aspects of QuietRock 525

• Non-metallic composition
• Same fire rating as Type X drywall
• Even after fixtures have been installed into the walls, noise reduction still takes place
• When having tiles installed in bathrooms with ceramic side facing outward, 525 can still be used under the tiles
• Installation is equivalent to that of regular drywall
• STC ratings between 51 to 72
• Compared to other soundproofing methods, 525 is much more cost-effective

Product specifications for QuietRock 525 are as follows:

• Fire-related: 1 hour
• Thickness: 5/8"
• UL-rated assemblies: U386,W317
• STC rating: 51-72
• R value: 0.5
• Weight: 2.7 lbs per square foot

No matter the construction project that you are carrying out, if soundproofing products are needed, then it's best to make sure you are using the right ones. áAfter all, poor soundproofing can lead a wide array of issues. á

Take for example that you're building a hospital. áIn order for effective communication to take place between staff and patients, soundproof drywall is of the utmost importance to ensure patient safety and first-class healthcare services are provided. á

Or perhaps you're building a bar or pub. áThe owner will want to rest assured that the activities and noise taking place in his bar will not be heard by nearby residents and business owners; this could lead to him losing his licensure to operate his business.

Fortunately, no matter the project you're completing, there is a QuietRock soundproofing product that can meet your needs.

Additional QuietRock soundproofing products: their applications and features

• 510: Lowest cost, 1/2" thickness, STC rating of 49-68 and ideal for remodeling and upgrades
• 516: Meant to be used on 16"OC studs, 1/2" thickness, STC rating of 46-49 and ideal for single family residences
• 525: Fire-rated, 5/8" thickness, STC rating of 51-72 and ideal for commercial properties, multifamily complexes, hospitals and hotels
• 527: Meant to be used on UltraSTEEL studs, 5/8" thickness, STC rating of 55+ and ideal for UltraSTEEL construction projects
• 528: Mold-resistant, 5/8" thickness, STC rating of 50-58 and ideal for high moisture areas
• 530: Shear resistance, 5/8" thickness, STC rating of 52-74 and ideal for high-end homes, commercial properties, hallways and schools
• 530RF: Enhanced RF shielding, 5/8" thickness, STC rating of 52-74 and ideal for medical shielding and SCIF rooms
• 545THX: Highest performance, 1-3/8" thickness, STC rating of 56-80 and ideal for high-end homes, music studios and commercial theaters

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